A Week in Winter on the Darß

We visited Germany's Baltic coast several years ago.  We stayed for a week in the summer on the island of Usedom close to the Polish border.  Ever since then, this area has held an attraction for me, namely because of its wildlife which is fantastic.  Mid winter is an altogether different proposition but the prospect of a week's birding on the Darß filled me with excitement.  As it happens, our visit coincided with a week of mixed weather including to begin with rain, a tremendous storm surge and finally a day so beautiful, clear and cold, that angels must have been present.

Map of the Darß

The lighthouse Darßer Ort, which includes a museum and restaurant

The Darß is famous for being a resting place in the spring and autumn for tens of thousands of migrating cranes and geese. To the north lies the Baltic Sea and to the south the lagoons of Saaler Bodden and Bodstedter Bodden.  The peninsular measures between ten and twelve kilometres from north to south and from east to west.  In winter the island provides a refuge for thousands of birds, including ducks, swans, geese, waders and other passerines.  Some residents stay throughout the year, including the fabulous White-tailed Eagle which I saw several times during the week.  There are three main areas for birding here including, on the north western corner the Darß Ort which includes beach habitat, salt marsh, reed beds and coastal lagoons, to the south the Saaler and Bodstedter Boddens which contain wintering water birds, and finally the north eastern extremity bordering the Baltic sea again.  A word of warning, the distances here can be quite significant and most people get about here on bikes during the warmer months.  However, if you are on foot, be prepared for a lot of walking - sometimes the best birdwatching areas and hides, nearly all of which are open to the elements, can be up to 10 kilometers from the nearest car park!

Darßer Ort in the rain.  I saw a White-tailed Eagle here, one of few species big enough to brave the extreme wind and rain!

Coastal habitat on the north eastern end of the Darß.  The temperature here, with a brutal wind chill, must have been close to -10C!

My first excursion was to the Darßer Ort in the rain.  The nearest car park is in Prerow and thereafter it is all by foot - and round trip of about 10 kilometers!  The best approach is to walk along the beach towards the small harbour.  Beach life included a flock of Snow Buntings, Sanderlings, Knot, Redshanks and some common duck species on the sea, including a Eider.  On arrival at the harbour, it is best to follow the circular path through a mixture of forest, reed beds and coast lagoons adjacent to the sea.  The latter were lashed by rain and wind and contained only a single Great White Egret, some Tufted Ducks and Scaup.  A fabulous adult White-tailed Eagle lumbered past.

Sanderling on the beach

Snow Buntings on the beach.

Redshank, Knot and Sanderling on the beach.

The following day was a complete wash out because of a tremendous storm which descended from Scandinavia.  The Baltic is not normally a 'rough' sea like the Atlantic for example, but the waves we witnessed from a pier at Zingst, were some of the largest I have ever seen.  The region experienced it worst tidal surge in 10 years causing flooding on several areas of the coast, including a rather exposed caravan site located on the beach.  Birding in these conditions was simply not an option!

Rough seas and high tide at Zingst.

The aftermath of the storm - a flooded caravan park on the beach.  The sea water is frozen solid.

At least the next day was dry, but the ambient temperature had dropped to -4C and an evil accompanying wind brought the temperature down to an inhospitable -8 to -10C!  Nevertheless I ventured out to the north eastern end of the island and parked as close as I could to the area I wanted to visit.  Things started well with another White-tailed Eagle but the distance to hides was sign posted at 10 kilometers - a round trip of 20 kilometers on foot which, I must confess, defeated me!  The other factor was that in such an exposed and hostile environment, very little was about.  Somewhat depressed, I returned to the car and decided to explore the southern side of the island which was more sheltered.  Thank goodness there were some birds: hundreds of Mute Swans accompanied by a hand of Whooper Swans, and Tufted Ducks practically as far as the eye could see.  Unfortunately the water was too rough to allow me spot any divers or grebes which I presume inhabit this refuge.  I also spotted my only geese - a gaggle of White-Fronted grazing close to the road.

Saaler Bodden - Swans and Tufted Duck

Mute Swans - Saaler Bodden

Whooper Swan, one of several - Saaler Bodden

White-fronted Geese - Saaler Bodden

My final day dawned cold, clear and still.  I returned to the Darßer Ort area with my two boys in tow - not ideal bird watching companions!  The first thing that struck us was the flood damage, especially to a beach caravan park.  Several were fixed hard in the ice and presumably heavily damaged if not ruined.  The beach turned up more Snow Buntings and waders as well as lots of Hooded Crows feeding of vegetable and organic matter left high and dry from the previous day's storm.  A flock of Yellowhammers were also present, though disappointingly no Shore Larks or other bunting species. 

Hooded Crow - Darßer Ort

Snow Bunting - Darßer Ort

One of many Yellowhammers - Darßer Ort

Following the storm surge, most of the footpaths had been shut and so we had to take the long route to the lighthouse - only another 3 kilometers!  After a hot chocolate I ventured as far north along the beach as I could before being stopped by the floods - again!  To be honest the sea was relatively quiet with a few Cormorants and a female Eider.  Highlight of the day must have been a fabulous female Goshawk which flew across us so close we might have touched her.  I am always impressed by the purpose and power exhibited by this species - surely one of the world's most impressive avian predators.

Cormorants hanging out; note the ice on the right hand side - Darßer Ort

Distant female Eider Duck - Darßer Ort

Darßer Ort - the view from the lighthouse looking north.

So, all in all a most enjoyable week despite 3 days of terribly challenging weather.  If you visit remember the distances are considerable, especially on the east end of the island where they can be prohibitively so.  I look forward to coming again in the spring to see the Cranes and whole host of migrating species that use this wonderful piece of coast.