Die Elbe

Perhaps the greatest and most important landscape in Germany lies either side and along the course of the river Elbe.  The river, which rises in the Czech Republic and empties into the North See in Hamburg, is one of the great trade and wildlife highways in Europe.  Thanks to 50 years behind the Iron Curtain, this mighty river remains less tamed and channeled than others - for example the Rhine - and has retained, throughout much of its course in Germany, some amazing wetland habitats which support an incredible array of wildlife.  The landscape is truly continental in scale - there is nothing like it in the UK - and its climate is characterised by warm summers and long cold winters.


Die Elbe from Magdeburg to Jerichow - note the large number of 'ox-bow' lakes

My guide for this trip was the Vogel Beobachten in Ostdeutschland guide, necessary to focus one's attention on such a large area.  My plan was to concentrate on the river north of Magdeburg, through which the Elbe flows, starting in the north and working my way south.  The weather was very warm and sunny.  Jerichow is a small town on the east bank of the river in the north of my area - see map - and fairly typical in the sense that it's landscape is dominated by the river and its flood plain.  The landscape here is very beautiful and charcterised by extensive areas of meadow dotted with vestigial lakes and ponds - marking I suppose the former course of the river.  Despite having the guide, the area was new to me and therefore my expectations were a bit 'hit and miss'. 


Flood plain landscape around Jericho - note the tall grass and small lake middle right

Having parked my attention was immediately drawn by the unmistakable sound of a Great Reed Warbler singing from some reeds in a nearby small lake.  Because of their size they tend to sing either from small bushes or from the bottom half of reeds necessary to support their weight.  This species is locally common and easy to find - basically look for any reed bed - big or small - and listen out for their unmistakeable song.

Great Reed Warbler - Jericho

The same pond was graced by some incredibly beautiful Black Terns which are also quite widely distributed along the course of the river attracted to and nesting on the plethora of shallow and vegitated small ponds and lakes.  The Germans have a lovely name for terns - 'Seeschwalbe' - which means 'lake swallow' - how apt!

Black Tern - Jericho

A couple of Swallows - Jericho

Wandering further out and onto the floodplain I saw distant Osprey high in the sky.  Whilst I see them regualrly during the Spring and Autumn, I am not sure what this bird was doing here in early June.  Nevertheless, my first of the year and very nice to see.

Osprey - Jericho

Other species were actually decidely scarce as I walked on and was limited to a very obliging Corn Bunting, which seem to be only a little bit more common than they are now in England, a distant Whinchat and some Lapwings.  Birds of prey were represented by the omnipresent Red and Black Kites and Buzzards.

Corn Bunting - Jericho

Lapwing - Jericho

Interestingly, there was no evidence of Grasshopper or Savi's Warblers  despite the large amount of apparently suitable habitat.  Indeed the only warbler I saw here was a Whitethroat which are very widely distributed and common.  A fly-by White Stork finished proceedings as I headed back to the car.  White Storks breed pretty much the whole length of the Elbe and nesting concentrations can be seen in many villages, many of whom compete for having largest number of nests - a nice tradition I think.



Common Whitethroat - Jericho



White Stork - Jericho

And so on to pastures new.  I took the minor roads heading south along the river crossing on a tiny ferry - somehow I never feel completey safe on these small boats whose scale is dwafed by the size and flow of the river.  Fortunately my attention was diverted by a couple of Common Terns - always worth checking for Whiskered in these parts.

A view from the deck!

Safely on the far bank I headed to the small village of Bertingen which is located adjacent to a large ox bow lake and some gravel pits.  I was deep in eastern Germany now and the villages have a uniquely eastern feel.  Many houses are deserted, some are falling down whilst others have been lovingly restored after their 50 year sujorn under Communism.  I sense that many of these habitations will struggle to survive as people continue to head for the major towns.  Anyway, back to the birds.  The lake, which is easily discernable on the map, played host to more Black Terns, Mute Swans, Coots, Moorhens and the usual array of wetland birds.  NIce to see was a Great White Egret which, whilst common in winter, are more difficult to find in the summer months - where do they go?  A Fox added interest - especially for my dog and Red-back Shrikes were common throughout the area.

Herr Fuchs - Bertingen

Red-backed Shrike

And so finally back down to Magdeburg - a historic city of which I am very fond.  It has managed to retain its distinctly east German feel despite all the new development that has taken place since unification.  Magdeburg also has a fantastic cathedral and Domplatz and, perhaps more by accident than design, has retained many small ponds and unkempt areas of habitat suitable for wildlife.  And of course, you are never far from the river.  I visited a couple of ponds on the edge of the city close to the river which were teeming with life, including frogs and an abundance of Marsh, Reed and Great Reed Warblers.  Nightingales seemed to be singing from every other bush. 

Magdeburg and the Dom

Pond at Prester, Magdeburg

I have to say that it was just brilliant to be here on the outskirts of a major city and to see and hear so much wildlife amongst people walking their dogs and cycling!  I suppose the weather helped - it being late spring and warm; the most abundant time of the year.

Hooded Crow - Prester

Grey Heron - Prester

And so finally here's the list: Mallard, Great Crested Grebe, Cormorant, Great White Egret, Grey Heron, White Stork, Black Kite, Red Kite, Marsh Harrier, Buzzard, Osprey, Coot, Lapwing, Black-headed Gull, Common Tern, Black Tern, Swift, Green Woodpecker, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Skylark, Sand Martin, Swallow, House Martin, Blue-headed Wagtail, Wren, Nightingale, Whinchat, Song Thrush, Marsh Warbler, Reed Warbler, Great Reed Warbler, Whitethroat, Blackcap, Coal Tit, Blue Tit, Great Tit, Golden Oriole, Red-backed Shrike, Jay, Carrion Crow, Hooded Crow, Raven, Starling, House Sparrow, Tree Sparrow, Serin, Greenfinch, Goldfinch, Reed Bunting, Corn Bunting and Yellowhamer.



Blue-headed Wagtail, Prester

Mighty stream - Die Elbe just south of Magdeburg

In summary, I'd have to say that the star of the show was the river.  She (die Elbe) manages to support such an incredible amount of life and I hardly managed to scratch the surface in a single day.  The Germans recognise how unique this landscape is and are doing a brilliant job in protecting it despite the need to safeguard communities from the occasional, nevertheless devastating effects of flooding.  If you are in this part of the world, the Elbe and its landscapes is a must.  There are few places like it.