Der Harz

It is the most uplifting and the most depressing of places - to paraphrase Charles Dickens.  I have known the Harz for 20 years and have seen it in all seasons and in all types of weather.  It and I have a complicated relationship.  The Harz Mountain range is about 110 kilometres long, stretching from the town of Seesen in the northwest to Eisleben in the east, and is about 35 kilometres wide.  It occupies an area of 2,226 square kilometres, and is divided into the Upper Harz (Oberharz) in the northwest, which is up to 800 m high, apart from the 1,100 m high Brocken massif, and the Lower Harz (Unterharz) in the east which is up to around 400 m high and whose plateaus are capable of supporting arable farming.



Topographical map of the Harz.  Goslar, where I live, is large red triangle at the top centre left.

A view of the Brocken massif on a fine autumnal day.

There is not a lot of information about birding in the Harz, either in literature or on the internet.  Indeed the few sites that one does come across usually encourage their reader to look for birds elsewhere!  There can be no doubt that bird watching in the Oberharz especially, can be hard work, but the Unterharz can offer much better and interesting prospects if one is prepared to persevere.  The reason for this is that the Oberharz was heavily industrialised by mining in the 18th Century and planted with coniferous plantations to support tunnelling.  The result is a monoculture environment, depressing and dark to walk through and devoid of life other than the occasional visitation by flocks of roving tits and Goldcrests.  Whilst the authorities have embarked on a process of felling and replanting with natural species of tree, we are talking about a period of renewal measured in decades not years.

Raben (Raven) Klippe near Bad Harzberg.

Winter scene above Sankt Andreasberg.

The Unterharz comprises mainly the eastern part of the Harz and its forests are characterised by beech, oak, rowan, birch and other natural indigenous species of pine.  The result, not surprisingly, is a far greater array of fauna and flora and a much more satisfying experience all round.  This region contains some stunning valleys such as the Bodetal - a gorge that can challenge the Grand Canyon (well not quite) and, in the far south east, the Silketal which can invoke, in the right weather, feelings of being lost in an everlasting arboreal wonderland.  Throughout this area there are birds a plenty including Wood Warblers, Pied Flycatchers, Wrynecks, all four species of woodpecker, Redstarts, Dippers, Honey Buzzards (widespread but scarce), Goshawks (widespread but scarce), Peregrines (20 - 30 pairs), Ravens and Black Storks (20 - 30 pairs).

My wicked (not really) stepmother Pauline, with Oscar and Max in the Bodetal.



The Ilsetal above Ilsenburg.

Winter scene above Bad Harzberg.

The Harz also plays host to some bigger beasties including, according to a Forstmiester I met, wolves.  Lynx have also been recently successfully reintroduced and can be seen in an enclosure near Bad Harzberg.  The forests also abound with deer and with wild boar which, despite their relative abundance, I've yet to encounter in 20 years of walking.  Sadly not present in these giant hills are Auehuhns or Capercaillies which are extinct despite attempts - half hearted I sense - to re-introduce them.  This is especially sad since their legacy lives on in many place names throughout the hills.  In summer a walk as high as 500 m will reveal a typical array of common species including Blackcaps, Willow Warblers and Chiffchaffs, as well as Goldcrests, most tits, including of course Crested, Siskins, Crossbills, Hawfinches, Nutcrackers and Jays.  A friend of mine recently saw a Great Grey Shrike 600 m up in early winter - the only shrike I have heard of at this altitude through Red-backed Shrikes can be found quite easily at lower altitudes. Tengmalm's Owls breed in nest boxes throughout the south though I have never sought them out.

Oberharz above Goslar.

Above Bad Harzberg.

So, there are birds to be found here but it can be hard work finding them.  Most bird watching guides recommend visiting only the Brocken plateau for transient Ring Ouzels (which I have never seen) and little else.  This is probably a reflection of the fact that life in general is pretty hard in the Harz - reflected in its poverty and remoteness - and that there are many far better places to watch birds at ground level - Frose springs to mind.  Most of these places lie on eastern rain shadow of this range where summers are generally warm and dry.  Whatever I think of the Harz, the Germans love them.  These hills and the Brocken are full of legends and feature prominently in German legend and literature, especially Heinemann and Goethe. Witches still dance on and fly around the Brocken and beautiful princesses, fleeing on foam flecked horses from terrible giants, still gallop across the hills.  This is the way the Harz should stay, steeped in legend and mystery and slowly returning to their green cloaked original state.

 

The call of the wild - Crane migration and the Goldene Aue

One of the benefits of living on the continent is to be able to witness the spring and autumn migration of Cranes.  Every spring and late into the autumn one stands a chance, either by casting one's eyes skywards or by listening for their distinct trumpeting call, of seeing the passage of these majestic birds.  Sometimes they are in small groups but just as often can be seen in their hundreds.  And they can be seen just about anywhere - from the car on the autobahn (always a bit risky), whilst shopping, or from your garden however big or small.  However, one of the best locations to see migrating Cranes in Germany is in the Goldene Aue - roughly translated as the Golden Shire.  This is a valley in eastern Germany, in the states Thuringia and Saxony-Anhalt situated between the towns Nordhausen in the west, and Sangerhausen in the east.  Crucially, it is bordered by the mountain ranges of the Harz in the north, and the Windleite and Kyffhäuser in the south. These features channel migrating birds, many of whom are further attracted by the Helmstausee reservoir and its adjacent reed beds and fish ponds.  This must be, especially in spring, one of the best places to watch birds in Germany.

Auleben fish ponds on the left, rough grazing and reed beds in the centre, and Helmstausee reservoir on the right.

Reed beds and the half-empty Helmstausee reservoir behind.  The south-east corner of the Harz can be seen in the distance.

Looking west across the reed beds from the dam.

I have visited this large and complex site many times.  It originally came to my attention when driving south from the Harz to Erfurt in early May I took a short-cut which took me past the fish ponds.  Subsequently, I went back to investigate and was astonished by the variety and number of birds I saw - Bluethroats, Penduline Tits, Marsh Harriers, Black and Red Kites, Ospreys, booming Bitterns, White Storks and a whole host of warblers singing from reeds and wet scrub and much, much more.  Thereafter this place became a favourite of mine, even if it is a 90 minute drive from Goslar.  Gradually I explored more and more habitats to the point where I now know where best and when to go. If this site has a draw-back it must be its size.  A bike would be useful providing it could accommodate a camera, telescope and tripod!

A map board showing the site's main features.

An informative information board about Cranes.

My visit to Helmstausee the other day was species specific - I wanted to see Cranes.  Last year when I visited at the same time, the whole site was enveloped with mist and I had to make do with a cacophony of trumpeting and the very occasional glimpse of grey shapes passing overhead - not terribly satisfactory!  Today, however, the weather was fine and mild.  I always approach this site by the fish ponds which, despite the fact that you cannot access them (the owners are very unfriendly and aggressive and I've found shot Ospreys here), are always worth scanning.  Today the local fields contained not a single Crane but at least 50 Great White Egrets and even more Grey Herons.  Surprisingly the fish ponds were virtually empty possibly because the owners have either scared or shot any bird daring to enter.  I then drove on to the village of Auleben where one can park and then proceeded to walk towards the reservoir - see the route marked with the red arrow above.  Cranes were immediately apparent wheeling and dealing in the bright blue sky.  They were moving in groups of about 20 - 30 and the birds in the photographs below, seemed to be heading off south west down the Goldene Aue corridor.

Close up - underside of Common Cranes - Helmstausee.

Common Cranes wheeling in the sun above the Helmstausee

As walked on towards the reservoir I noticed that it was half empty and scanning with my binoculars I could see that it contained thousands of Cranes.  Regrettably they were too distant for photography and I was also disappointed to confirm that, beyond several hundred Coot, the exposed mud and water contained very little else.  I was unable to find a single wader or duck.  But the Cranes were there - in their thousands. 



Common Cranes migrating - Drömling.

Red Kite - Helmstausee

Turning back I observed a Red Kite and an Osprey sitting in a tree.  The former are present throughout the year and are common - I have counted as many a 50 on some occasions.  The Osprey was obviously passing through and as such was quite late.  They can be seen here quite easily throughout the spring and autumn.  Finally, walking back towards the car I found a Great Grey Shrike.  There is always at least one bird here throughout the winter but the site is so large you need a bit of luck to find one.  This bird showed well before flying off towards the fish ponds.



Osprey - Helmstausee.



Great Grey Shrike - Helmstausee

So, a successful visit.  Far more so than last year's foggy excursion.  Cranes seem to move quite late.  I recall seeing my first group near Saarbrücken at the end of August, but October through to early November seems to be the peak period for Cranes using this western fly route.  Fortunately Crane populations have increased significantly in recent years thanks to habitat restoration and conservation measures.  This magnificent bird is becoming more common and is increasingly seen throughout Europe as they pass to and from their breeding sites.



Illegal bird trapping - the dark side of Cyprus

"A Robin Redbreast in a Cage
Puts all Heaven in a Rage"

William Blake 1757-1827

Its Saturday and I am about to start my third and final week in Cyprus where I have volunteered to work with the Committee Against Bird Slaughter (CABS), a German charity dedicated to the eradication of illegal hunting and trapping of birds throughout Europe.  Cyprus, which lies in the eastern end of the Mediterranean basin, is one of the key migratory routes that birds use during their journey between Europe and Africa.  It is assessed that over 100 million birds visit the island every spring and autumn.  According to BirdLife Cyprus, over 2.5 million birds are killed by illegal bird trapping on the island every year.  The number is improbably large, but sadly this is a conservative estimate.

Cyprus

Illegal hunting, mainly with shot guns, is endemic, even in conservation areas

Care of the environment seems to be of little importance - sadly a common sight.  'Fly-tipping' is rife

Bird trapping has been a traditional rural activity in Cyprus using mainly the sticky sap of Syrian plums applied to short sticks deployed in trees and attracted sometimes by tethered decoy birds.  Most people indulged, seeking a little morsel of precious protein to improve their diet.  The overall impact on bird populations was probably insignificant.  In the modern era trappers have taken advantage of the use of mist nets, upgraded the lime sap to include industrial strength glue and have deployed MP3 players and car batteries to mimic and attract passing birds.  The result has been a wholescale scale expansion in slaughter which was only reduced following Cyprus' accession to the European Union in 2004.  However, and again according to Bird Life Cyprus, trapping has again increased significantly since 2005, triggering the intervention of a number of non-government organisations, like CABS, and brave individuals prepared to run the gauntlet of organised crime. 



Blackcaps - or 'ambelopouli' - considered a local delicacy

Female Blackcap or 'ambelopouri' about to be released by a CABS volunteer

CABS runs camps in Cyprus each spring and autumn.  Every night and often early in the morning too, small patrols venture forth into the countryside and suburban areas listening for the unnatural and unmistakable siren sound of bird song.  The most commonly heard is that of the Blackcap, a beautiful warbler familiar to most of us in Europe.  'Ambvelopouli', as they are known here, are the main target.  Each bird is worth approximately €40 driving an industry estimated to be worth €15M a year.  Sadly it's not only Blackcaps that get trapped.  30 other species of bird can be eaten including thrushes and other warblers.  The rest of the 120 or so species that have been reported as caught are simply left to die.  There is a local saying that it is bad luck to release a bird, as each is a gift from God. 

Lime sticks seized by the police



An olive tree prepared for lime sticks - the planks enable access to higher branches

A hard day's night

Patrolling can be dangerous; approaching pick-up trucks and strange voices in the night force volunteers to take cover and hide.  Activists have been beaten up in the past and in my time our hire car was immobilised and key-scratched.  This in no holiday.  Between 4:00 and 5:00 am, the CABS patrols rendezvous with the Animal Protection Service (APS) to brief them on trapping sites they have found during the night and to organise an ambush and hopefully make an arrest.  However, the current scale of trapping and the small capacity of the APS are such that their effect is limited.  A recent excursion of mine into the British Sovereign Base (SBA) area of Dhekalia identified so many active decoys that we could only conclude that the situation is now, in this British controlled area at least, out of control. Despite Prince Charles writing to Commander British Forces Cyprus in March 2014 demanding action, very little seems to have been achieved and trapping continues unabated.  Mention should also be made of the gauntlet Quails run here in Cyprus.  Trappers deploy quail decoys by the dozen across the dry dusty farmland so that the night is filled with the weirdly unnatural sound of their calls.  Whilst hunting Quails in season is legal, attracting them with batteries of eclectically powered decoys is not.



A mist net trapping site 

A night's black harvest - all these birds - mainly Blackcaps - were successfully released, save one which had to be destroyed

Fortunately it's not all bad news.  Trapping is abating in some areas and many young Cypriots are determined to turn things around.  From my perspective, the dedication and determination, combined with an academic rigor in documenting the issue, of the CABS personal has been humbling.  Many have genuinely dedicated their lives to saving birds across Europe in this way and their approach in tackling this distressing issue is impressive.  For me, working as a volunteer, the highlights must include the release of birds following the seizure of mist nets.  Above you can see how they come.  Trapped in mesh and unceremoniously dumped in a bucket. However, careful hands are on standby to cut them free and to release them.



A Garden Warbler cut free

Ian - a CABS volunteer with a small friend

The past 2 weeks have been amazing and eye opening.  As I conclude this post a day after starting it, I reflect on the 7 blackcaps and single Lesser Whitethroat we rescued in the early hours of this morning and released at dawn in a car layby somewhere in the middle of Cyprus.  One's happiness is tempered by the knowledge that many hundreds will not have been so lucky.  Finally, if you wish to join a CABS camp, look at their website and apply.  Please also spread the word so that together we can accelerate the end of this barbarous trade.



A Wryneck shortly before release

In the back of a car in a layby- cutting free a Blackcap

Clockwise from bottom right: a dead Ortolan Bunting, Red-backed Shrike, Wood Warbler, Blackcap, Chiffchaff, Lesser Whitethroat and Great Reed Warbler



Herbst - Drömling

A short post following a visit to the Drömling this morning.  The weather was initially overcast with sunny periods developing steadily as the morning went on.  The temperature was about 18C.  I have written about the Drömling before - its a huge area not suited for the concentration of migrants and is at its best in Spring when its fit to bursting with newly arrived birds, and late Autumn when the Cranes and Geese are passing through.  Small migrants will pass through on a broad front and are therefore not easy to see. 


Map extract - Drömling

Not surprisingly Swallows were much in evidence skimming across the meadows catching insects.  A few House Martins were also present.  A First Summer Redstart showed nicely on the edge of a bush line.  Amazingly I had not yet seen this species in Germany and so it was new both for the location and the country - for me at least.  Soon afterwards I was surprised by an adult White-tailed Eagle which, as is becoming a habit with this species, approached me from behind.  This is the third time I have seen this species here.  A Lesser Spotted and Great Spotted Woodpecker flew over - the former is scarce and is therefore a good sighting

Swallows - Drömling

First Summer Redstart - Drömling



Adult White-tailed Eagle -  Drömling


Roe deer were much in evidence - they are very common in Germany and roam freely all over the Drömling.  I saw 15 today - they obviously knew that no hunters were about.  Whinchats were quite common and make a nice change from their Stonechat cousins.  A Garden Warbler briefly showed its face before disappearing deep into the bushes again. And, last but not least, a couple of Ravens cavorted overhead against the now blue sky.  Some Common Buzzards and Red Kites added a bit of variety on the raptor front.

Roe Deer  -  Drömling



Whinchat  - Drömling

Raven - Drömling

All in all a pretty uneventful visit and proof that you need to time your visits to get the best from wherever you're going.



Herbst - Frose

Time to get back to the birds.  Autumn is here and things ought to be beginning to move.  A visit to Frose was in order to see what was coming through.  I had also read some reports of late summer congregations of Bee-eaters hawking over the water and was keen to see if I could see some.  I've been to Frose several times attracted by its diversity and the abundance of species - I've seen, after this morning's visit, 68 species here.  The weather was calm and warm - 20C.  A beautiful early autumnal day.
 

Map extract - Frose and the Concordia See



Frose village from over the reed beds

First impressions weren't too optimistic.  I'd timed my arrival so as to arrive mid-morning when the air would be warmer and therefore more conducive to insect activity.  Certainly compared to my visits in the early spring when the place was a cacophony of bird song, it was eerily quiet.  Halfway along the track bisecting the reserve are two expanses of water one of which contains a drowned wood.  The left hand area is more open and shallow and contained the wonderful sight of nearly 200 Lapwings. Often overlooked, these birds are really beautiful, particularly so when the entire flock, spooked by a local Marsh Harrier erupted into the air, their black and white wings contrasting spectacularly against the sun.  Accompanying the Lapwings were several Ruffs in winter plumage and right at the back, beyond camera range, a handful of Dunlins.  So, something was coming through and both waders were new to me at Frose.

Lapwings at Frose

Juvenile Marsh Harrier - Frose

Ruffs at Frose

On I walked pondering all the species I'd seen here in the Spring - nearly all of the warblers were gone save only for a softly plumaged gentle-faced Marsh Warbler and a couple of their Reed brethrens chuntering from deep within the reed beds.  I played cat and mouse with a juvenile Cuckoo hoping for a shot but he or she proved too elusive - always moving on in that long-winged elastic way of theirs.  There really didn't seem to be that much about, especially on the passerine front.  The other lake was graced with 12 Great-White Egrets and some Grey Herons whilst the sky was filled with hirundines fattening up before the long haul south.  Suddenly the air was filled with a quipping sound indicating the arrival of a 10 strong flock of Bee-eaters flying on stiffly held wings over the water.  This species is most obliging in the sense that they're easy to photograph posing obligingly on dead trees in the middle of the lake.  I spotted at least one juvenile bird and assume this raiding party came from the Osmarsleben colony I had visited in June.



Bee-eater - Frose



Bee-eater - Frose

White Storks flying over Frose

Turning back towards the car I picked up 3 White Stocks heading south which, when added to the handful of migrating Cranes I had seen the other day from the car, indicate that the big bird passage has started too.  Frose seems to attract large numbers of Starlings maybe because there is so much suitable roosting habitat.  Large numbers wheeling across the reed beds is a spectacular sight and certainly worth observing not least as a fascinating behavioural characteristic.

A flock of Starlings over Frose

One of ten Great White Egrets - Frose

Finally, I was really please to find a couple of juvenile Penduline Tits - another new species for me at Frose - which despite being widely distributed, aren't that easy to come by.  This couple were certainly easier to photograph than their bearded cousins which never stay still long enough for me to get a snap.  Lastly, just as I approached the car, some Sand Martins flew over head.  Here's the morning's list then: Great White Egret (12), Grey Heron (11), White Stork (4), Marsh Harrier (several), Buzzard (5), Lapwing (circa 200), Dunlin (4), Ruff (8), Black-headed Gull, Woodpigeon (2), Cuckoo, Bee-eater (10), Sand Martin (5), Swallow (circa 30), House Martin (22), Pied Wagtail (2), Wren, Dunnock (2), Robin, Song Thrush, Marsh Warbler (1), Reed Warbler (2), Whitethroat (3), Willow Warbler (2), Blue Tit, Great Tit, Penduline Tit (2 juv), Magpie, Jackdaw, Carrion Crow, Starling (100), Tree Sparrow, Chaffinch, Greenfinch, Goldfinch (15).

Juv Penduline Tit - Frose

Juv Penduline Tit - Frose

Finally, now that the summer is officially over I should return to my original subject - that of Montagu's Harriers.  Despite trying, driving and walking miles, I have seen none - save the early passage female bird in the spring.  I have looked in old haunts and promising acres of crops but must admit that I've drawn a blank.  As they say, information is power, and with so little useful intelligence and help, it was always going to be difficult - but I thought I would find some somewhere!  On the plus side I've got to know the landscape and villages north east of the Harz and have grown to love them in their inimical German way.  And I've seen a lot of great birds in the process and all under my own steam.  Next week the Drömling, but today Frose did not disappoint.