A personal guide to birding at Frose abd Osmarsleben

Located on a former DDR brown coal open cast mining site, Frose stands as an oasis of bio-diversity amongst an arid desert of intensive agriculture and wind farms.  The main site of interest lies below the attractive village of Frose but extends north to include the much larger, deeper and dangerous Concordia See and Konigsauer See to which it is very difficult to get access.  I discovered this site purely by chance as I happended to be driving by and was astonished to see such a large area of wetland and reed bed. I vowed to visit it as soon as I was able and wasn't disappointed.  Also included in this short guide, is the site of Osmarsleben which hosts a colony, sadly seemingly somewhat diminished, of Bee-eaters.  The map below shows the Osmarsleben sites numbered 1 and 2 and the Frose site numbered 3.

Map of Osmarsleben (1 and 2) and Frosse (3) sites.

Frose - the wetland and reed beds lie immediately to the north east of the village astride the small stream

The reed beds with the village in the background

The best time to visit Frose is in May and June when all the migrant birds have arrived and are singing.  Access to the site is easy; a car can be parked on the road running from Frose north east and a good path conveniently bisects the reserve.  The village recently erected a simple viewing hide half way along the path - its not brilliant but its better than nothing.  The habitat includes flooded meadows the other side of road opposite the reserve which, if wet, can hold ducks and waders, extensive reed beds and lagoons which, depending on the time of the year can either hold a lot of water or none at all!

Lapwings at Frose

Marsh Harrier - Frose

Marsh Warbler - Frose

So, a well-timed Spring visit here will virtually guarantee Grasshopper, Savis, Marsh, Great Reed, Reed and Sedge Warblers, Bearded Tit and Penduline (with a bit of luck), Hobbies, Marsh Harrier, Garganey, Bittern (often heard booming).  Less likely are Bluethroats (which seem to be declining here) and Turtle Doves.  Storks and Cranes are a real possibility and I regularly see Honey Buzzards in Soring and Autumn flying over.  Bee Eaters are virtually guaranteed here in Autumn hawking over the lagoons for insects. 

Bee-eaters - Osmarsleben

Bee-eater - Osmarsleben

Bee eater colony - Osmarsleben

Osmarsleben is about 10 minutes further south of Frose so the two locations are easily combined.  Bee-eaters have been breeding in the warm and dry corridor east of the Harz for many years and Osmarsleben has been an important colony for these birds.  The site consists of a series of sandy quarries - some large and some relatively small (see photo above) which are easily excavated by the birds.  Sand Martins are also present in quite significant numbers.  The surrounding countryside is intensively farmed and I fear the extensive use of pesticides has affected the numbers of insects so much that the Bee-eater colony may soon be abandoned due to a lack of food.

White Stork - Frose

Garganey - Frose

In summary, though somewhat remote and isolated, Frose is definitely worth a visit if you are in the area.  The quality and array of birds you can see in Spring especially is amazing.  The site is also extremely manageable and, to cap it off, you'll get a good simple German meal and a beer in Martina's Kneipchen in the village itself.  If you want any advice on visiting this area I'd be happy to help: rose.andrew.john@gmail.com

A personal guide to birding in the Drömling

The Drömling is part of the Ohre-Aller glacial valley that forms a 30km wide low lying wet basin. It is located approximately 15km east of Wolfsburg and lies chiefly in Sachsen-Anhalt.  The landscape is dominated by semi-cultivated moorland covered to a large extent with extensive areas of bushes, mature trees, coppices and ditches.  The northern part of the Drömling is drier and consists of sandy soils used mainly for agriculture.  Due to its size and because of the extraordinary array of birds that can be seen here, the Drömling requires two days to do it justice.  The best time of year to visit is in May and June, though all times of the year can be productive.  The Drömling is probably the best location in this region to watch birds. Highlights include Ortolan Bunting, Montagu’s Harrier, Hoopoe, Great Grey Shrike, Barred Warbler, Rosefinch, River Warbler, Blue Throat and many more besides. The bio-diversity here is, especially in Spring, astonishing - there are not many places in Europe where you can see up to 20 Cuckoos in one sitting!

The Drömling - note Buchhorst centre bottom third, and Jahrstedt right two thirds up.

River-side walk north of Buchhorst

The Drömling - river Ohre and spring landscape near Buchhorst

Buchhorst and Jahrstedt are the best places from which to explore the northern part of the Drömling. Buchhorst lies in the so-called ‘Kern Zone’ and sits astride the river Ohre which flows in a south easterly direction through the Drömling.  A car can be parked in a layby immediately south of the bridge over the river opposite Kolonie Wassendorf and a highly productive walk can be made along a good path to the right hand side of the river past the old railway line as far as a weir and a bridge and then right as far as you can go until you reach a ditch.  Grasshopper Warblers are usually evident in the meadows to your right and Golden Oriels are often heard and seen high in the trees.  I have seen River Warbler here as well as Great Grey Shrike, Icterine Warbler, Spotted Flycatcher, ubiquitous Red-backed Shrikes and Cranes too.  Here you are right in the heart of the Drömling and just about anything can turn up.  

Barred Warbler locations

Sperbergrassmücke territory south of Kusey.  The bushes running through the centre of the photograph, are growing in a water filled ditch.

The best location to see Barred Warblers is in a damp and bushy habitat to the north of Buchhorst and to the right of the main road leading to Rowitz.  The best approach is through Buchhorst, but then to take the small metalled road to the left immediately before Weddendorfer Buchhorst.  A car can be parked besides the Kalte Moorgraben and entry effected along a path adjacent to a wood containing breeding White-tailed Eagles.  The Barred Warbler habitat, which consists of parallel low bushes, opens up to your right just past the wood.  Barred Warblers are often hard to locate the best chance you will have of finding some is in late May early June and by walking attentively through this habitat  listening for their song which is often delivered from the top of a dead tree.  They are there!

The Schwarze Brucke and Jahrstedt

Rosefinch - Schwarze Brucke

Great Grey Shrike - Schwarze Brucke

An alternative approach is via Jahrstedt and Kaiswewinkel the latter of which leads to the Schwarze Brucke indicated by the red dot on the map.  A car can be driven from Kaiserwinkel along tracks indicated with the black line on the map and thereafter the bridge can easily be reached by foot. This area is a gateway into the northern part of the 'Kern Zone' and is as productive as the Buchhorst area. Ortolan Buntings are present along the tracks - listen out for their song, and Barred Warblers and Icterine Warblers are also present, though tricky to see.  The area beyond the bridge allows a good rectangular hour long walk to a viewing platform which affords a good view of the area.  Rosefinches and Great Grey Shrikes are real possibilities here as well as Great Reed Warblers, Stonechats, Whinchats and a lot more besides.  The village of Jahrstedt is different in character to the Kern Zone being drier and more agricultural is definitely worth visiting especially for Montagu's Harrier in the fields and, if you're very lucky, Hoopoe and Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers in old abandoned orchards.  Woodlarks, Tree Pipits and Turtle Doves can also be seen in this area.

Hoopoe - near Jahrstedt

Montagu's Harrier - near Jahrstedt

Kusey

Ortolan Bunting - Kusey area

Kusey, like Jahrstedt, is an agricultural area though of low intensity.  The mosaic of tree-lined tracks, small coppices and sandy soils make this one of the best locations to see Ortolan Buntings in Germany.  The best time to see them is obviously in May and June and anywhere within the triangle formed by Kusey-Rowitz-Wenze is likely to produce some birds.  The wet area below the central wood shown on the map, is also worth visiting and has produced Barred Warbler, Wrynecks and Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers.  I have also seen Beaver in the ditches - listen out for their load tail-slapping alarm.

A good circular walk near Ruhen

I found this place, which is 5 minutes south east of Ruhen, whilst researching locations for Barred Warblers.  Though I have never seen any here, I am often attracted to this area of the Drömling because it is easily accessible and manageable.  A car can be parked just above the 244 sign on the map and a walk conducted according to the directions shown.  I have seen a lot here, including Corncrake (heard), Bluethroat, Snipe, Black Stork, Great Grey Shrike, Black Woodpecker, Hen Harrier, Hobby and White-tailed Eagle.

Bluethroat - Drömling

Drömling - north east sector.  A typically bleak winter scene

So in summary, the Drömling is an absolutely fantastic place to visit.  Spring is best, though any time of the year will yield dividends. Two recommendations for places to eat if you need refreshment; The Orient Grill in Rühen (Hauptstrasse 23) and the Pension und Gasthaus Fahrenkamp in Röwitz which is a traditional German pub/restaurant.  If you fancy visiting the Drömling and need some advice, please don't hesitate to get in touch with me and I'll gladly help. My email address is: rose.andrew.john@gmail.com

Summer In (mainly) northern central Germany - the Drömling

Most of my summer's birding was concentrated close to home, mainly in the Drömling.  Spring had been quite remarkable, including local Hoopoes in Dorset and Wrynecks on the Steinberg above Goslar, and early summer proved quiet and unspectacular.  A couple of outings to Apelhorn near Langlesheim, where I had found Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers, were also a little disappointing as I had been hoping to find some Redstarts and Hawfinches but had to make do with unbelievable quantities of Red-backed Shrikes and another Wryneck.

Northern part of Drömling

Red-backed Shrike - Apelhorn

Red-backed Shrike - Apelhorn

Male and female Red-backed Shrikes - Steinberg, Goslar

Yellowhammer - Apelhorn

It was no until late July that I was exploring the northern part of the Drömling hoping to find Montagu's Harrier nests, when I discovered 2 in a single field.  No great detective work was needed as the nests and fencing are clearly visible when the crops have been harvested.  I was overjoyed, not least because I had failed to find any harriers in the Grosse Bruch, and here were at least 2 females, 3 or 4 juvenile birds all being serviced by a single busy male.  

Male Montagu's Harrier

Female Montagu's Harrier

Juvenile Montagu's Harriers in nest 3 metres from a road!

Wryneck - Apelhorn

I returned a week later with a couple of friends keen to see the harriers, however, what really made the day was the unexpected arrival of a Hoopoe.  These birds are very rare visitors to the Drömling and occasionally breed here, so this was really exciting, especially as it seemed to be sporting a brood patch.  Climate change is causing many birds to extend their ranges north including these iconic birds.  The habitat here is ideal with light, sandy soils, plenty of dead trees and decrepit farm buildings.  Definitely one to listen out for next spring.

LSW in dead apple tree - Drömling

Hoopoe - Drömling

LSW - Drömling

Honey Buzzard - Drömling 

Our search in a village for the Hoopoe elicited an amazingly confiding Lesser Spotted Woodpecker searching for food in an old decaying orchard though no sign of the bird we were looking for.  A Honey Buzzard emerged from the wood line to climb high over the Montagu Harrier field and a Golden Oriel barreled over us.  Down towards the Schwarz Brucke we headed hoping to find some Barred and Icterine Warblers which we had seen here several times before.   However, our attention was diverted by an unusual call and the surprising white and grey flash of what turned out to be a Great Grey Shrike.  I was pretty sure that I had seen one here early in the Spring, but here was real evidence of breeding with up to 3 birds obligingly perching on dead trees.  And, if that could be bettered, a single Rosefinch emerged only to be chased off by one of the shrikes!

Great Grey Shrike - Dromling

Rosefinch - Dromling

Rosefinch - Dromling

A re-awakening interest in butterflies also commanded my attention this summer aided by a Camberwell Beauty in a forest near Dresden and of course the phenomenal influx of Painted Ladies we experienced throughout Europe.  I have to confess, however, that the myriad of blues and browns seen in continental Europe are too much for me and I have to concentrate, to begin with at least, on the more common species.  Easy to identify though were the Hummingbird Hawk Moths that were visiting our garden in Dorset.  In one week I saw about 20, more than I have seen in my entire time here on the south coast.

Camberwell Beauty - near Dresden

Painted Lady - Goslar

Hummingbird Hawk Moth - Dorset

On a slightly more ominous note, I attach a picture of the River Ohre which flows through the Drömling.  Climate change is much in the news these days and we ornithologists witness its effects by the changing patterns of bird distributions, however, to note how dry this small though arterial stream had become in somewhere as moist and special as the Drömling, is portentous to say the least.  This place owes its magnificence to its wetlands, and it would be truly catastrophic were they to dry out.

A nearly bone dry River Ohre in the Dromling

Finally, I attended BirdFair in Rutland on behalf of CABS.  A wonderful experience to see representatives of the bird watching community from all over the world (apart from Germany!) and meet up with some old friends.  I even caught site of one of re-introduced Rutland Ospreys and Red Kites.  A really positive experience and definitely to be repeated next year.

CABS stand at BirdFair

BirdFair - so much to see!

Spring run .......

As Springs turns into Summer it worth reflecting on the wonderful run of birds I saw in Germany and in England.  I spent much of early March looking fruitlessly for Lesser-Spotted Woodpeckers (LSW) (Kleinspecht) and eventually found one in a small wood on a former Bundeswehr training area near Langelsheim, Goslar.  A friend of mine said that he knew people who were yet to see a LSW and he was therefore quite excited and very keen to visit the site, especially when I found a second bird.  The woods in question held Black, Greater, Middle, Lesser-spotted and Green and, later as spring progressed, a Wryneck - more on which later.

Female LSW - Appelhorn

Middle-spotted Woodpecker - Apelhorn

Male LSW - Appelhorn

Early spring is a great time to see woodpeckers as the trees are not yet in leaf.  However, LSWs are really difficult to photograph as they flit around high in the canopy.  My next success occurred in April in Langton Herring, Dorset. Whilst eating Sunday lunch outside in the garden enjoying the beautiful anti-cyclonic spring weather, I could have sworn I heard a Hoopoe calling.  3 minutes later my neighbour called me over to his house excitedly explaining that a Hoopoe - he thought - was in his garden.  Sure enough, there it was very happily feeding on his lawn.

Hoopoe - Langton Herring

Hoopoe - Langton Herring

Hoopoe - Langton Herring

Hoopoe - Langton Herring

The Hoopoe stayed all afternoon watched by half the village which was nice. I got word out via Bird Guides and Twitter, but since it was mid afternoon and the bird was in a private garden, no one else was able to see it.  The next morning it had gone.  Where to, no one knows. Interestingly, my bird's arrival coincided with a mini local Hoopoe invasion by 4 birds encouraged to cross the channel by the warm fine weather and it is, I believe, the second Hoopoe hosted by Langton Herring in the past few years.

Pair of Wryneck - Steinberg, Goslar

Wryneck - Steinberg, Goslar

Wryneck - Steinberg, Goslar

My next find was a pair of Wrynecks on the hill behind my house.  Heard one morning in early May whilst walking the dogs, I quickly found one bird calling incessantly and soon heard a second which presumably was a female.  Being so close to my house I was able to indulge myself and spent hours watching them,  Later, I fixed a movement camera on a hole in a dead tree and was rewarded by confirming the pair excavating a hole in preparation for breeding.  At the same time, I found a third bird at the Appelhorn site but was unable to establish whether it was breeding.  Wryneck seem to be quite widespread and relatively easy to find at least when they are calling.

Wryneck - Appelhorn

Wryneck - Appelhorn

A routine spring visit to Frosse delivered a beautiful Honey Buzzard, Grasshopper and Savis Warbler.  Conditions were cool and breezy and so the warblers were difficult to see let alone photograph.  Also present were Great Reed Warblers, a female Golden Oriel and a booming BIttern.

Honey Buzzard, Frosse

Honey Buzzard, Frosse

Savis Warbler - Frosse

Grasshopper Warbler - Frosse

My local sewage works came up trumps with a Bluethroat which really pleased me because last year I didn't manage to see any and the several sites I know of.  A pair of local Blue Tits decided to nest inside a traffic light pole much to the delight of dog walkers.

Bluethroat - near Goslar

Bluethroat - near Goslar

Blue Tit - Goslar

Back in Dorset in May I had occasion to help look after an ill friend in his beach hut on Christchurch Harbour's beach.  The birds were wonderful with my favourite of all, Dartford Warblers, breeding on the heathland on Hengistbury Head. The tidal pool behind the hut hosted all sorts of waders and gulls including these wonderful Bar-tailed Godwits and immaculate Grey Plovers. After several million frames, I managed one half-decent shot of a Sandmartin.  A beautiful place even though my visit was under sad circumstances.

Dartford Warbler - Hengistbury Head

Linnet - Hengistbury Head

Sandwich Tern - Christchurch Harbour

Black-tailed Godwit - Christchurch Harbour

Sand Martin - Hengistbury Head

Sanderling and Dunlin - Christchurch Harbour

Grey Plover - Christchurch Harbour

There ends my golden spring run.  Early summer has proved more challenging through there is plenty of time.